For a lot of folks. It's understood, it was bigger at other places.
But friends would cycle in and out of the lineup, 3 max. I pull up and was too amped to wait for a bigger set wave to shoot - gotta pull on that rubber and paddle out might the donkey stampede arrive.
And another Lysergic sunset:
Maybe this is gonna be a good Fall after all.
I did surf a bigger spot, but, not this idyllic.
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