Sunday, March 9, 2014
The swell was not supposed to fill in until tomorrow, but but the earlier the better during a drought. As the vernal equinox approaches, the light has a warmth to it, which is needed when the water temps are still 38°. This 9'4" Hansen - the partnership board (more on that later) rocked. Friends said it was waist plus, but after I paddled out on a pre-leash era board, some occasional head high sets swung through. Such a fun board - cranks a meaty bottom turn, then take the hike and rocket down the face.
Thursday, March 6, 2014
Monday, March 3, 2014
March 3, 1989:
Along comes De La Soul with their positive style making them an oddity beginning with the first single, "Me, Myself and I".
Their positivity meant many observers labeled them a "hippie" group, based on their declaration of the "D.A.I.S.Y. Age" (da inner sound, y'all). Sampling artists as diverse as Johnny Cash, Hall & Oates, Steely Dan and The Turtles, 3 Feet High and Rising is often viewed as the stylistic beginning of 1990s alternative hip hop and especially jazz rap.
"An inevitable development in the class history of rap, De La Soul is new wave to Public Enemy's punk," wrote critic Robert Christgau in his Consumer Guide column's review of 3 Feet High and Rising.
And for what it’s worth, that worthless rag, Rolling Stone magazine gave the album three stars (what? just 3?) and concluded that it was "one of the most original rap records ever to come down the pike, the inventive, playful 3 Feet High and Rising stands staid rap conventions on their def ear."
Looking back, when Three Feet High and Rising was released 25 years ago today, the hip hop world was changed instantly and permanently, says the surfer.
Sunday, February 23, 2014
Sunday, February 16, 2014
Clean waist to chest waves, light off-shores, and a few pods of surfers here and there. The catch? Snow. But it wasn't snowing at first, this is what I missed earlier (below). Motivating on days I don' have to work continues to be a challenge. Hell, both the water and air temps are in the 30's, so some self slack-cutting isn't all that bad when I don't fly out the door in February to go surf.
That said, I still went surfing in the snow, something every surfer should experience.
Friday, February 14, 2014
Wednesday, February 12, 2014
It's winter in America
And ain't nobody fighting
Cause nobody knows what to save
Save your souls
From Winter in America
All this BS cold & snow has put me in a Gil Scott-Heron frame of mind. I protest this unjust and cruel weather!
It will be one of these effing things after another until Easter. God give me strength.
Grab from the Hampton cam this morning (below). Yup 5° air temps, 37° water temps.
This used to be a rare sight, now commonplace.
meanwhile in Sunny Tortola my bud Johnny 'O keeps taunting and gloating:
So if your freezing your ass, wondering when this will all end, this tune might help take the edge off:
And if you're sipping cold ones in the islands now why not enjoy it with a big bowl of of **** you, haha. Bastards!