45 years ago today

I popped out, in the meantime, folks were sliding in style. It's been the longest day at work, all I can do is daydream about hooking into some clean warm waves like with this young lady in 1965.

yesterday's glass off - a sweet cherry on top of a bitter cake

Wednesday - light offshores + big ground swell + incoming tide should equal fun city.....nope.

Thursday - glassing off, but fading swell + dead low tide should equal waste of time around here....nope. 8 folks in the lineup, including the clown who tailgated me all the way to the beach (even thought I was speeding too). Well, my point - not a single local 'cept me. I didn't know anyone.

Saint Patrick's Day Swell

Big & unorganized (Cromwell's curse?), and even a big house fire.


But the weather is warm and I noticed the 1st crocuses of the season - right on time around here.

Big swell, big fire

Storm Finally Lifts

After 84 hours of driving rain & wind the storm has lifted. This huge swell can finally clean up & get organized.

¡Ya basta!

Will this BS ever #$%king stop?

Some lo-fi shots from last weekend's waves

The weather last weekend was as nice as this weekend's is crappy. I got a bad feeling that it's going to be like this until July 4.

March Motorsports

Using someone else's picture is lame; but I love it so much. Richie Ginther was an outsider in a lot of ways, a kid from Grenada Hills CA (LA) in a very European racket. But he still did well as a team driver for A-list teams like Ferrari, BRM and most famously Honda. He took a fine second place in the 1963 World Championship.

Honda was an outsider too. An upstart motorcycle mfgr. from Japan taking a shot at the big timers. Against the likes of Ferrari & Lotus, they'd win in fine style and were always in the running. The word was out, Honda's OK after all. Both seen here stickin' it to the man in Mexico,'65.