Monday, March 14, 2011

First time surfing in almost 3 months or how Hintlian got his groove back

Satisfaction! There's so little of it, is the word still in the dictionary?
December 24 was the last time I was in the water, seems like ages. But it was't the torture I had feared. Why? Well around here the Winter was freakishly flat and especially freezing, so I didn't miss much. Also work has been insanely busy, helping the time fly. My ear feels so much better, and music brings me the same thrill it did in my younger days; so it was well worth it the time out. I never got the tattoo though.

So the wingnose worked well. At the local place around here the waves were especially punchy & fast, and the water is only 36° (2° centigrade) despite the acceptably mild air temps.
This board has quite a pronounced kick about a third the way back. The original owner/shaper is Tyler himself. His advice: "the board will plow and be a real dog unless you're on the nose". So there's zero fudge factor here.

The last 2 waves were the best; a left and a right I kooked out on but whatever - getting you're groove back is the important thing

1 comment:

  1. Hey, came upon your blog and spent the last hour reading back through it (instead of working). Great stuff, great stoke (the clip from Five Easy Pieces was worth it all by itself). I got back in the water on Friday for the first time in ages myself -- long, flat winter, forgot what it was like to surf.
    Thanks and keep it going.
    Paul (Poi Dog on Jams) in Maryland