Tuesday, June 28, 2011
A few small gems on a crap-ass surf day
Greg had the idea to go in here. You know the drill: drive to the destination and it sucks. And plan B, C, and D are sucky too. Then you get to the point of saying "screw it let's stop dicking around and get wet".
I was all for going home and with a glassed on fin at low tide, especially at this place, I'm asking, no begging for trouble, and a trip to Keith Natti's.
And it was VERY shallow in spots - rocky bottom here. I'd love to say I avoided collisions by doing Dore-esque side slipping moves, but no it was sheer luck. But not for Greg. That's OK, I got some action shots of the Gregness avoiding most of the tombstones.
The last wave was a winner, so I cashed in my chips and quit while I was ahead.
And a movie for y'all too - look out Mikey! I'm making surf movies now.
St. Peter's Fiesta 2011
A New Temple for Gloucester
Sunday, June 26, 2011
Saturday, June 25, 2011
Basque Country surf - take me right away.
Now that I've seen these photos I have to try it - here we walk through paved parking lots: there you pass through the dungeon/grotto/tunnell o'darkness leading to the light. The Spanish add flavor and a touch of drama (just enough) to everything.
My kinda wave - my kinda country.
Photos stolen from the Gato Heroi blog.
Thursday, June 23, 2011
James J. "Whitey" Bulger - Dark Boston Saga ends in Sunny Santa Monica
See what happens when you leave Santa Monica? Things start to become interesting. I’ve been fascinated by this saga since day one. This has its roots in South Boston & Somerville Massachusetts, and arguably in the “Old Sod” (Ireland). Then he gets picked up blocks from my old flat on Princeton St. A huge dose of old Boston in the city of angels.
Long long story very short, James Whitey Bulger was – is, a very very bad dude. Whitey played the various factions of the Boston & NY Mob, the FBI and who knows else against each other. He leaves a trail of murders, secrets, and fear. He’s soft spoken, friendly enough if you were to meet him, and according to his FBI profile has a genius level IQ.
There’s a ton of good background information on this – it reads better than any Hollywood movie, in fact, Martin Scorsese based his film The Departed on him.
Rumor had it he was living in LA or Orange Counties, as well as London, Florida, Mexico, Ireland. Who’d have guessed it would end there? Or is this the beginning?
“Santa Monica, Home of the Homeless” as the saying goes – I’m sure there’s a joke in there somewhere. In the meantime tune in and be prepared to be shocked.
Long long story very short, James Whitey Bulger was – is, a very very bad dude. Whitey played the various factions of the Boston & NY Mob, the FBI and who knows else against each other. He leaves a trail of murders, secrets, and fear. He’s soft spoken, friendly enough if you were to meet him, and according to his FBI profile has a genius level IQ.
There’s a ton of good background information on this – it reads better than any Hollywood movie, in fact, Martin Scorsese based his film The Departed on him.
Rumor had it he was living in LA or Orange Counties, as well as London, Florida, Mexico, Ireland. Who’d have guessed it would end there? Or is this the beginning?
“Santa Monica, Home of the Homeless” as the saying goes – I’m sure there’s a joke in there somewhere. In the meantime tune in and be prepared to be shocked.
Saturday, June 18, 2011
06-18-11 Paddleboard Intro
"I'll be high & dry, piece of cake" Ker-plunk.
Knee paddling will take much practice. So I kept it to regular paddling. Amazing power - Ten Pound Island, the sea glass capitol, and back in no time.
Did I mention that I got dunked at first? - alot.
I've got to get me one of these.
Then the sunset! The light here never ceases to amaze
Wednesday, June 15, 2011
it pays to paddle out when it looks lame
Tuesday, June 14, 2011
Monday, June 13, 2011
Remissness
It’s been too long but the good news is you haven’t missed much. Or is it good news? For the past month it’s been commute-work-sleep here at the speedway. Or as they say in France, metro-boulot-dodo. Actually that’s magic news when you consider the alternative.
Enough bitching and on with a big recap.
In Memoriam:
Two major passings, two major losses; or the revolution will not be televised, and he’s dead, Jim. Can you guess? Gil Scott Heron, and DeForrest Kelly.
Gil Scott-Heron: 1949-2011
Gil your message got through to this white kid insulated in Winchester MA from the evils of the world loud and clear, without rubbing my nose it it, rocking out all the way. No hate, just truth. The revolution WILL put you in the driver's seat, brother. Thank you
DeForrest Kelly: 1920-2011
Dammit Jim, I’m just a country doctor! Go easy, Bones, you rocked.
Surfy news:
The 9’8”?? Hansen Master ‘Pointed Tail’ has been cleaned up, fixed up, and waxed up. This thing rides the shit in steeper beach break. In principle, the narrowness provides control in the face, and it sure feels this way. Old boards are for riding, but not riding into the ground, these things are almost as old as me…almost. So they spend most of the year looking pretty in the rafters of my living room, but come summertime, they are stoking me out where they belong: in the lineup.
Everyone should have a vintage board, something that takes you back to the roots of whatever your surfing trip is. You all know what I like, so I love the Hansen. Into thrusters? Pick up an 80’s shorty or even late 70’s stinger. Fish? Same deal. SUP? How about a wooden kookbox? Tom Blake style: Waikiki 1930. A rideable board from the roots of your trip, whatever that is, will connect you with the heritage of your sport and lifestyle.
Surf Shop Shout Out
More recently I visited the Endless Wave surf shop in Newport RI. All I can say is check it out. Talk about rootsy. Some gorgeous boards you can’t get anywhere else in NE, some cool threads you can’t get anywhere else in NE, any accessories you’d need, and an atmosphere that’s very cool but not at all pretentious. This is such a tough balance to get right. All that and a friendly & knowledgeable attitude and you’ll be stoked out. Endless Wave are the same good folks who brought us the Wax Buddy. Now Aquidneck Island has Elemental/Island (yessss) Water Bros (the man, myth & legend Sid Abruzzi), and now these guys. 3 different shops, three different flavors, all in Newport, a city that’s so fun it’s scary.
Vive la difference, and God save me from the things I want!
Enough bitching and on with a big recap.
In Memoriam:
Two major passings, two major losses; or the revolution will not be televised, and he’s dead, Jim. Can you guess? Gil Scott Heron, and DeForrest Kelly.
Gil Scott-Heron: 1949-2011
Gil your message got through to this white kid insulated in Winchester MA from the evils of the world loud and clear, without rubbing my nose it it, rocking out all the way. No hate, just truth. The revolution WILL put you in the driver's seat, brother. Thank you
DeForrest Kelly: 1920-2011
Dammit Jim, I’m just a country doctor! Go easy, Bones, you rocked.
Surfy news:
The 9’8”?? Hansen Master ‘Pointed Tail’ has been cleaned up, fixed up, and waxed up. This thing rides the shit in steeper beach break. In principle, the narrowness provides control in the face, and it sure feels this way. Old boards are for riding, but not riding into the ground, these things are almost as old as me…almost. So they spend most of the year looking pretty in the rafters of my living room, but come summertime, they are stoking me out where they belong: in the lineup.
Everyone should have a vintage board, something that takes you back to the roots of whatever your surfing trip is. You all know what I like, so I love the Hansen. Into thrusters? Pick up an 80’s shorty or even late 70’s stinger. Fish? Same deal. SUP? How about a wooden kookbox? Tom Blake style: Waikiki 1930. A rideable board from the roots of your trip, whatever that is, will connect you with the heritage of your sport and lifestyle.
Surf Shop Shout Out
More recently I visited the Endless Wave surf shop in Newport RI. All I can say is check it out. Talk about rootsy. Some gorgeous boards you can’t get anywhere else in NE, some cool threads you can’t get anywhere else in NE, any accessories you’d need, and an atmosphere that’s very cool but not at all pretentious. This is such a tough balance to get right. All that and a friendly & knowledgeable attitude and you’ll be stoked out. Endless Wave are the same good folks who brought us the Wax Buddy. Now Aquidneck Island has Elemental/Island (yessss) Water Bros (the man, myth & legend Sid Abruzzi), and now these guys. 3 different shops, three different flavors, all in Newport, a city that’s so fun it’s scary.
Vive la difference, and God save me from the things I want!
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