Tuesday, June 28, 2011
A few small gems on a crap-ass surf day
Greg had the idea to go in here. You know the drill: drive to the destination and it sucks. And plan B, C, and D are sucky too. Then you get to the point of saying "screw it let's stop dicking around and get wet".
I was all for going home and with a glassed on fin at low tide, especially at this place, I'm asking, no begging for trouble, and a trip to Keith Natti's.
And it was VERY shallow in spots - rocky bottom here. I'd love to say I avoided collisions by doing Dore-esque side slipping moves, but no it was sheer luck. But not for Greg. That's OK, I got some action shots of the Gregness avoiding most of the tombstones.
The last wave was a winner, so I cashed in my chips and quit while I was ahead.
And a movie for y'all too - look out Mikey! I'm making surf movies now.