The week following labor day - this has been the vacation slot of choice for me since 2006 and it hasn't let me down yet. But Katia showed here Thursday morning & Mina made the best of it. Another surf convert in the making - but we can use folks like that, thanks for paddling out!
The weather lifted and the rain delayed Rhodie camp trip was on in full effect. Down there was the best surf Rhode Island has seen in a long time; just where I was going - so satisying.
The groundswell was kicked up by Hurricane Katia, miles and miles offshore. It was already head high on Cape Ann when I left.
When I showed up at a well known spot sheltered and groomed by a giant break-wall, you couldn't recognize it. I'm no local but it was breaking in spots it never breaks - you all know the story at your spots. So be it, in a brief 45 minute session I was treated to one of the fastest, longest, most powerful lefts I have ever ridden - made it too. You end sessions after rides like that, plus I had to set up camp.
Next morning off the proverbial hook. At the main spot no one was out - just too big & out of control. Back at the prior night's spot it wasn't really working at all either, but the good news (sort of) was it was fading fast. Down the road at another well known reef break in front of the Ocean Mist, my friend Special J (who was there for the swell) and I stopped in for food and a beer, then went out right in front. The wind was kicking in so settle up at the bar and paddle out.
After waiting on one pretty decent left, I was getting annoyed with the increasing chop & bozos. What looked like a right came through, but I went left - doh! but wait a long ass left practically to under the Ocean Mist's decks pilings, to thunderous applause from the crowd at the bar (not really). Redemmed from the moning's bust.
Late afternoon magic. AWWWWWW SHIT YEA! I was pretty wiped and was all up for gathering firewood and chilling out at the campsite. Special J wanted to see one last place before driving home, and the thinking was why not tag along & shoot some pictures, I'm a zombie at this point anyway.
Well the same spot with was so out of control in the morning was glassed off, shoulder-head perfection in the evening. Screw tired, the waters warm, the light is amazing, throw on the vest, you load and hit it. It was just too damn beautiful to pass it up.
A bit of a crowd issue here, but I was getting my fill and pretty happy with life. Time to shoot some in-water pics for this 'ole blog - but look - a glassy green ship is coming my way, looking around - yes - no one else is around. Thanks Special J for the sign language to cut back - never would have known - that set me up for a whole new section on the inside - whoooowee - one of the longest rides ever at that spot.
Eva! - you rule and glad you dig the design - more on that, much more, later.
The next morning that same spot was still working nicely, but quite a bit smaller. Before the wind shut it down it was a handful of cooperative strangers, warm air, trunk-abe water temps and morning waves which were backlit and amazing gold-green by the morning rays. No epic ride, but a mellow end to a mellow session. Time to break camp and head back up to Cape Ann.
A few points and thank you, my friends, for reading:
Today is the tenth anniversary of the 9/11 attacks; a sad day for us yanks, but it was a crisp fall-like day without surf. A day to reflect, unpack, a day to write this up, and to savor the holdover buzz from some if the best surf I've had.
The sweetest hangover:
Don't call a doctor"