Tuesday, October 23, 2012


Glassy, shoulder high, and a little overhead on the sets.
Lifting fog, 70°, 58° water temp – life is good. Until I paddle out. Despite the ideal coinditions the waves were nearly impossible to catch. You know the ones: they don’t want to break until way inside, and at that point any drop is a trapdoor into a closeout. Did I mention that punching through the whitewater would have you winded, gasping for air by the time you finally reached the lineup. A local described the waves as “wonky”.
Non-surfers: surfing sucks don’t take it up!
Despite my bitching I still look back at Saturday’s session with the warm & fuzzies – don’t ask why, it must have been the amazing light, and the gorgeous fall color. Still sore!

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