Tuesday, March 5, 2013

treasure islands




_MG_1989

They seek it here, there seek it there
those surfers seek it everywhere.

Is it in heaven? Or is it in hell?
That damned elusive winter swell

OK no more poetry, promise. The bottom of a shipwreck shows up occasionally - treasure seekers on the beach and in the line up.
_MG_1988 _MG_1980

But the day's destination was an untried (for me) beach up north, where a rapidly filling tide flooded out the break (below). So onto the next beach up - Now I knew better, but still paddled out. This was a fundamental mistake amplified after having learned the smart treasure seekers at the next beach up scored the pure nuggets.
_MG_1993

Finally back home - driving an hour in a wet wetsuit isn't all that bad.
_MG_1999
That's Spencer- he let me ride his Kookbox - a very, very nice board.

Just keep on keepin' on as they say, it's a process. No pot o'gold but happy for the fun rides and the stronger March sun.