memorial day weekend stellar recap

It's a new day - memorial day weekend it's a great place to start, finally hooking into some fun waves. Nothing huge but it's so nice to have light offshores for a change.

Sunday was a paddle across from Ipswich to Plum Island

Pre greenhead invasion opportunity

deep thanks and gratitude

Ever since my father died over a week ago I have been deeply moved by the outpouring of affection which has accompanied his death.

I always knew he had many friends. But the extent of the tribute that huge numbers of you have paid my father in the last few days has been overwhelming. I have drawn great comfort from so many individual acts of kindness and respect.

Too many of you have had to cope with family loss, sometimes in the most tragic of circumstances. So I count myself fortunate that my father was blessed with a long and happy life. He had an infectious zest for living, and this remained with him until the very end. I know too that his faith was always a great strength to him.

My family has a wider sense of thanksgiving for his life and times – times not without their trials and sorrows, but also great times, full of examples of courage and leadership as well as fun and laughter.

This is what my father would have understood, because it was the warmth and affection of people everywhere which inspired his resolve, dedication and enthusiasm for life.

I thank you for the support you are giving me and my family as we come to terms with his death and the void he has left in our midst. I thank you also from my heart for the love you gave him during his life and the honor you now give him in death.

May God bless you all.

for sale - 9'8" Tyler Pintail

OK this is the perfect surfboard for your summer sliding. 9'8", 23" wide, thickness is between 3⅛" and 3¼". Interested? e-mail me

please no obnoxious lowballs

• Price: $850
• Can meet you in Metro Boston, RI, Seacoast NH, Maine (as far as York)
• Comes with a True Ames Greenough 4A fin
• Great paddler, at 205lbs. even I can knee paddle it.
• Nice weight – not over the top heavy but with volan glass job it’s glide city.
• Great in point breaks, beach breaks
• No shipping on this

image backup - Ipswich and nearby beachbreak

Just shooting pics over the past 2 weeks. More surfiness photos tonight, but in the meantime I must say my new adoptive town of Ipswich is extraordinarily beautiful:

Plus some hot Instagram action

Stoked out on the Granite Stoke

This was the coolest little movie.
The Granite Stoke is a highly original film put together by 2 very talented young fellas. It was refreshing in that it avoided every cliche which has become commonplace in today's surf films.

• No interviews where dudes are choked up with emotions holding back tears; sniff
• No cutsie twee b.s. sentimentality
• No self-indulgent soundtrack that only the director likes
• No emo long filler shots of sunsets, sunrises, horizons, etc
• and zero pretense.
• And most importantly the proceeds from this move don't go to Vans or Quiksilver stockholders, or wherever - they go to help the most excellent Molly Fund --supporting kids with cancer.

Bravo Ryan Scura and Dylan Ladd, the movie premiere was a blast, can't wait to see their next project.

If this film comes around your town while on tour, don't take it for granite. (sorry)

Canggu Surf Community - a surf contest actually worth watching

Surf contests mean nothing, zero, zilch, nada to me, but here's some logging that even has this hater digging it. Leave it to the good folks at Deus ex Machina to put something together that gets internet viewers stoked out. Enjoy:

Canggu Surf Community Inaugural Longboard Event 2014 from Deus ex Machina on Vimeo.

Summer Salad by Hayley Gordon: girls still rip

Summer Salad from Hayley Gordon on Vimeo.