Tuesday, September 18, 2007
Surfing - 9/15 and 9/16
Between all the commuting to Boston the past few weeks and my recent trip to Montauk, I thought it would be nice to take a load off and surf locally if there was any surf. I was looking forward to reconnecting with the local break and my Cape Ann chums.
Saturday started off small & rainy, but there was some small knee high lines. A front was due to pass, which usually brings offshore & sunshine. TJ, a local had a groovy ass vintage Bing twinnie (photo above). A fun omen.
As always at Good Harbor, the waves are a bit bigger than they appear from the road. It was closer to waist high. I paddled out with my home girls Janet & Erin, waited a bit to see what the setup was that day -- fun little rights. Long story short, on the rights I was stylie boy.
Not only was I cross stepping, but after a step or 2, I was still on the wave! Gotta love that Tyler 305!
Later the sun came out and the wind really started to crank offshore – windy to the point of being blown out to sea. But who cares, I was landing cross steps like a man possessed.
Why is this important?
You may ask. As a dedicated longboarder of the single fin variety, walking up & down the board is they stylish way to stay in the curl, or breaking part of the wave. That’s the goal here, friends. And a logger who doesn't walk the board isn't doing the main thing that makes longboarding so special - just my opinion. I felt like half a longboarder - incomplete if you will. Shuffling is for donkeys, and after almost 11 years, I’m a late bloomer in that department.
So what’s next?
More cross stepping, and getting closer to the tip - 10 piggies over baby! Also better walking whilst going to the left (or backside or me) that’s harder. But the breakthrough has been made, and it’s only a mater of time & practice. Atta boy.
The morning looked fun & glassy, but high tide wasn’t until 3:00. Come noon I went back out, but a stubborn easterly flow came up, and while the sun was out (I got burned), it was damn cold. I caught a chill, and was wishing I had a 4/3 wetsuit.
There was a slight bump on the water, and the crowd was obnoxious. The donkeys were out! And none of those fun rights from Saturday. And to top it off, a donkey dropped in on me on my 1st wave. No biggie, I was in a very good mood for some reason that day. I said nothing, not even a “heads up!” To what end anyway? I was even having a nice chat with Ginger Kid. Nice guy after all. As John of Clean & Natural Surfboards once said: “peace should prevail”.