Late October Surf Recap:

We’ve had a fun week of waves up here on the rock. And by all accounts it was great everywhere else. Sadly, I didn’t travel – more on that later.


From October 21st through the 28th there were waves, a solid groundswell which segueing into a wind swell. All of New England was lit up. As for me it was hit and miss. I’ve been too stressed about money and where my next freelance job is going to come from. If there’s a stoke-killer out there it’s work headaches. Gotta work that hustle. My friends with normal work schedules get so envious, but surfing uncrowded lineups isn’t much fun if you don’t know how you’ll pay the bills.

Sorry, but times are tough all over. Even poor Jay buckled his board.

But Magnolia, and the beaches were fun, but 2 days were busts; Friday-Saturday when I missed the tide and chased closeout after glassy, chest high closeout. But a fun Creek side and a mid day weekday session at the Hotel side sure took the edge off. A trip to New Hampshire, Maine, or RI would have been time well spent if I wasn’t so broke. I must stay by the phone and be ready for freelance work with literally a few hours notice.

This is a perfect illustration of the classic clash between surfing, or any passionate activity, and career/money. The name of the game was quality, not quantity. Also, what good is all the waves in the world when you get out of the water, only to find your car has been repossesed?

This too will pass, a few more gigs and I'll be all super stoke again.