The waves tonight were small, but the shape was super, and there were only 2 other surfers out. And once you cranked the turn, you’d fly. Yet another benefit of wide boards.
The Olympus 1050sw goes in the water, shoots great pics, and you can surf with it, it’s so small.
The water was trunkable – yay.
There was a 10-year-old butterball of a kid playing in the waves with a body board. Kinda in the way, but not really. It was, after all thigh, occasional waist high. I had to pull out to avoid hitting him. It was like a hall of mirrors, I think that he was me in a time warp. That could have been me circa 1975, a goofy kid with a kick board from Mal’s department store, resplendent with STP stickers, happier than a pig in you know what. Same deal 34 years later.
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