Sunday, July 19, 2009

NH & Local

Well, not that bad today - the tide was incoming. The only pollution was scores of swimmers.

Session 1: NH, my second new spot in as many days. No surfers loads of folks in the warm water, but a delicious wave on the Junod. And to think, a few miles up the coast was vibey surfboard soup at the wall. The water was amazing, clear and warm. Just trunks in the 81° (27°c) air.

Session 2: Local. 5:00, quittin' time for the lifeguards, and the starting gun for the donkey stampede. Whatever, I had fun, ans surfed until dark. I lost a pint of blood to the hard core mosquitoes on the walk back to the car.

Question: have you ever sold a surfboard and regretted it? Well I have have a board I'm just not feeling. I swapped it for the 9'6" Anderson Josh Farberow model I sold to Chad in 1995. The first ride was incredible, I'm very happy. THE RED BOARD IS BACK!


  1. the only pollution was swimmers


  2. took me 20 years of trading boards, but finally, about 10 yrs ago i learned never to trade/sell a board that i really like. never! just let 'em stack up, you'll get that feeling, go dig it out, and surf it again one day.