Well, not that bad today - the tide was incoming. The only pollution was scores of swimmers.
Session 1: NH, my second new spot in as many days. No surfers loads of folks in the warm water, but a delicious wave on the Junod. And to think, a few miles up the coast was vibey surfboard soup at the wall. The water was amazing, clear and warm. Just trunks in the 81° (27°c) air.
Session 2: Local. 5:00, quittin' time for the lifeguards, and the starting gun for the donkey stampede. Whatever, I had fun, ans surfed until dark. I lost a pint of blood to the hard core mosquitoes on the walk back to the car.
Question: have you ever sold a surfboard and regretted it? Well I have have a board I'm just not feeling. I swapped it for the 9'6" Anderson Josh Farberow model I sold to Chad in 1995. The first ride was incredible, I'm very happy. THE RED BOARD IS BACK!
the only pollution was swimmers
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took me 20 years of trading boards, but finally, about 10 yrs ago i learned never to trade/sell a board that i really like. never! just let 'em stack up, you'll get that feeling, go dig it out, and surf it again one day.
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