Wednesday, August 26, 2009

Billy Big Boy – Hurricane Swell Recap

For once – a week’s vacation and a hurricane swell coincide. Hellooo Rhody.

The swell from Hurricane Bill hit the Cape Ann right on time, but it just wasn’t working. Crossed-up lines, closeouts, and ‘trap door’ waves. You know the ones, you’re getting ready for a fun, forgiving ride, and POW, the bottom drops out and down you go if you haven’t pulled back. I’m sure there are some local secret spots that gave up the goods, but not for this lazy longboarder. The trip to Rhode Island was becoming more and more of a reality. No more driving around and around looking for some shoulder. Dammit, it’s my vacation and I’m going to get a front row seat to the action.

Sunday – drive to Rhode Island, the small state with a big heart.

And big waves. The crowds at the Pt. Judith lighthouse were obscene. Having been warned by Special J that the lot was full, I went to a more sheltered spot just around the corner – a regional classic. About 12-15 people were out. I’ve heard of it, one of the longest lefts on the East Coast, (and a damn good right too). Solo, I paddled the Anderson Farberow out into shoulder/head high waves in 73° water. After while, there were just a few people out, including the coolest girl in the world on a Surfboards Hawaii single fin. She was on all the set waves in fine style.
This session was my ideal. Challenging enough, and long long rides, plus a few mellow folks, and air temps in the 80’s. The best thing is making the drop, and almost looking up at the face building in front of me while flying along. That girl added a sparkle to things, but she split before I could get her name. Another time another place.
The reef break was big, I just couldn’t hook it up, and I kept missing the shoulders and getting swallowed alive after a survival drop. Later we all headed to site of Sunday’s magic. It was about 80% as big as before, but otherwise the same deal.
We wrapped things up at the lighthouse. The swell was fading, down to a solid shoulder high, but clean and fast. I dropped my board doing the famous Rhode Island rock dance. There no defense against that wet black stuff on the rocks, and down I went. It will buff out. The red board treated me so well. At 9’6” but only 3” of thickness is kind of small for me. No matter, in the bigger stuff I felt comfortable, and I was never under gunned at the logging spots.

So no huge bomb wave to tell you about, (and there were some big bombs to be had), but loads and loads of fun rides and good vibes.
You can see all the pics here.