The forecasts were spot on for a change. The trouble is everyone and their jackass brothers read them as well. The wall was packed with idiots. It was head high plus on the sets with diminishing offshore winds. Damn near perfect.
But it sucked. Why? People backpaddling each other, party waves, people on the inside and not caring. Folks, it's a big day with punchy waves, so USE YOUR %$#*ING HEADS!
Instead, 2 poor sods were hospitalized with nasty surfboard bonks on the head. Even HFD ambulances. Too many close calls for comfort. It was time to bail.
I ran into my bud Greg who had just arrived, and after watching from the wall, descibed the situation as "mayhem". Good call by
Clammer. Now I've seen it more crowded, but never with such jackassery.
Up the road was a bit smaller but far less crowded. It was all crispy lefts and fast rights. There were 3 of us out. This place can real good, kinda far-from-the-madding-crowd thing too. The change in the overall mood was huge.
777 in full effect.