Little state with a big heart. Derby tickets sold out on Thursday (crap!), so I went when Special J egged me on to come down & surf - maybe the forecasts were bull. They were. There were some younger dudes riding heavy singlefins who were blowing the #@ck up.
Excellent to make a 2 hour drive & score.
Excellent to surf with some pretty chill guys & gals.
Excellent waves for a day that was supposed to be flat.
Excellent food & drink at my beloved Ocean Mist.
I'm so glad I got the call to come surf - thanks.
An aside - so often I pull up to surf spot but I'm too anxious to suit up & paddle out before the conditions spoil. So I pop a few perfunctory shots which short change my portfolio and you, dear readers. Do any other surfer/picture takers have this problem or do I just suck?
:)
ReplyDeleteI think you have to decide before heading to the beach, if you're going to surf or to take great pictures.
And if you're going to take pictures, leave the board at home :D
Usually I take a couple of pictures before going in, just to remember it later.
And after surfing, when I'm really tired, then I try to take something more interesting.
you are welcome :)
ReplyDelete