'Porto Fancy Footwork

Tyler Hatzikian and Josh Gilberts at El Porto yesterday. Video by Kiyo Okada.

Bootleg - upcoming Kookbox movie

Bootleg Trailer from George Trimm on Vimeo.

The teeming autumn, big with rich increase

Long period growndswell (4’ @ 11 sec.), cloudless skies, and strong (but now too strong) offshores more than offset the teeming crowds.

Musclecar Monday: 1960 Ford Galaxie Starliner

Ever notice how it's "Galaxie" rather than "Galaxy"?
MSRP: $2,610?(!!!)

Summer exits in fine style

Amazing sunset last Wednesday - Summer's exit.

Nadine Chase Ends Well After Decisive Late Drive North

Local Bust averted

Closeouts everywhere and the one workable peak was mobbed. But it was gorgeous anyway.

Matt made it work.

Reports from the North were good and getting better. It was so annoying that at 4:15 I rolled with the plan I should have stuck with all week.




Plenty of fun corners, I guess by late afternoon the locals were just plain surfed out.

Motorsport Monday - 1967 Brabham-Repco BT24

Waves, Sickles, Girls

Or, the Mummies wrote surf music. The garage rock reference was irresistable. This is the tail end of the Leslie love-in. Some waves, amazing Triumphs (sickles) and girls do indeed rip!

Above: your's truly hooks into one of many loooong rides (photo: Special J)

Keepin' it greezy Pete's Triumph and some pickem' up truck envy:


A different 'Trump' bobber:



Shop dog:


Girls rip:


Dumbass cracker got in the way of this shot - but she was tearing it up on a log.

Garage-punk isn't everyone's bag but the incredible Mummies gave me the inspiration for the title. "Food, Sickes, Girls!". Swap food for waves and what else matters?!

September Image Pileup

Some pre-Leslie Schooner-fest and a mystery roll of half frames.

Frank Gehry - vastly overrated "Star-chitect" - I know what he's trying to do but so what. Fitting for Bard College in upstate New York, and we were curious to see what the rock star bad boy-flavor of the decade did this time. Eh, -not feelin' it, but a cool little campus nontheless.



Below - I think these are Summer 2011 - looking out my back door and the Prudential/Symphony area of Boston.

Leslie hangover

I don't wanna cure for this.

Wavelength - You never let me down...no

Or Van Morrison wrote surf music.



You're all spared the day by day & wave by wave. Boring to read, exhausting to write. But trips like this: what can you say? A full week later and the glow remains. A glow I never knew before.

OK - no more BS - I'll cut to the chase:

So I'm driving home tonight, wondering how to best put it that it was an incredible trip, and getting nowhere. Then over the classic rock radio Van Morrison crackled through and it hit me - whether he khew it or not Van wrote the best surf song ever and nailed how a lot of us feel about it all.

Wavelength - when it came out in '78 I thought it was OK (being only 13 at the time), now 34 years later it's an anthem.

Wavelength - You never let me down...no

When I'm down you always comfort me
When I'm lonely you see about me
You are ev'ry where you're 'sposed to be
And I can get your station
When I need rejuvenation

Wavelength - You never let me down...no

That, friends just about sums it up, doesn't it?


Amen! & please give it a listen on youtube or wherever and let me know if I'm off my ass or if you get it too!

Sneak preview! There are too many good photos from this trip to cover it all in one post. So stay tuned for articles about the fresh Triumphs, oceanographic porn, the 7'2" Egg (what!?), and an all rude-girl issue.