Monday, January 13, 2014

First Surf of the Year and It's a Good One

After missing the last swell from the previous week a cleaned up windswell and mild(er) temps made for a fun afternoon. No bad feelings about missing the prior week's banger, with a wind chill factor of 8° and loads of closeouts, I'll live to fight another day. But that was then - it all lined up, along with my schedule for good afternoon. This winter rubber plus holiday slacking really drove home the importance of physical conditioning. It took all afternoon to get dialed in, at which point my muscles were smoked. Still, hooking into fast, chest high hero waves always satisfy. Note: look carefully, these waves are a little bigger than they's seem at first glance. Surf buds Eric and Spencer are drawing some pretty high line as they speed left. Some wanker did my motor at my home break. I was too happy about the waves to really care. No rain? No problem; this time tomorrow it will be fixed.