Paddling out there can be a psyche-out, I didn't know anyone, and there was only a handful out that afternoon. But screw it, I waited almost 30 years for this, and while it's a world class break, it was a pretty mellow day. And at least it isn't coral or granite.
Even in waist to chest conditions the power behind these waves is evident despite the early and easy takeoff. Drop in, crank the turn, and fly. Then it finally breaks with a thump directly on the shore. By then there has been plenty of time and speed to pull out. Rinse, repeat.
Air temps: 82° water temps: 72°:
Me: trunks, t shirt, everyone else – full suits, boots too. Plaisantez-vous?? It's European thing. And despite reports from naysayers back home, the water was crystal clear.
French locals: pas mal de tout.
Bagging on the French has become a bit of a national pastime. But can I say I NEVER experienced so much as a vibe or stink eye. Au contraire, everyone was cool everywhere. Simply follow the Hye Tyde axiom: just don't be a pain in the ass and you'll be fine.
I'll never forget an amazing French girl catching loads of waves (there are plenty to go around) with the most delicate, pure logging style, all smiles. She had such a good energy it flowed over the lineup. Whoever she is, she's got one bright aura.
After a bit, I was able to break the ice with some of the French in the lineup. I was filled in on the history of the place, and they were amazed at the conditions we deal with here in New England (never fails).
|taken a few days after - the spot on the right is actually overhead|
Je l'espère bien!
|Anglet's Coat of Arms, or "Blason" - this town goes back to the Romans|