Wednesday, September 22, 2010

5th Hye Tyde Annual Surf Trip Extravaganza

And the 5th time with fun waves. This was a shortened trip this year.

I was camping in RI last week in anticipation for Hurricane Igor. He took his own sweet time turning on the juice, but with a longboard and the right spot the surfing was a blast.

Day one – show up
Night one – Monsoon rain and knock down wind. I have perfected my campfire building technique. I love sleeping in tents – not.
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Day 2 – loads of fun, but this was from the cleanup on the prior night’s storm, not Igor as we had initially thought.
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Night 2 – Providence & Johnny Rockets with my darling niece who’s just started college up there. The good thing about 3 days of long surf sessions is you can have a massive burger, fries and share a shake and still come home a couple of pounds lighter!
Day 3 – Saturday – fun city
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Day 4 – only time for a morning go, - I had to clear out and head home.DSC00192.JPG
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Zaius, Taylor, and Nova bummed about the wind

Again, the surf was fun, but by the time I was out of the water and ready to shoot, the wind was on it, and the photos suffered.

Arriving home and a place which never breaks was working, kind of. More on this later.
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Some seriously fun waves.

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Another Old Hansen?!

Special J spotted this and I had to have it - the Red Anderson (which I was trying to sell for cash) had to go in trade;like the saying goes, if you wanna make an omlette, you have to break some eggs I guess. I also broke my word, my apologies, Jacko, but you'd do the same in such a situation (at least I hope you would!).

It's a fun rider so far -- knifey rails, thin and pretty narrow (9'8" long x 22.25 wide x just under 3" thick) - more to come as the story unfolds. The thing's a blade and isn't as heavy as you'd think.

So we got 2 old Hansens and 2 Tylers, I guess I know what I like, and I like what I like.

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

oh boy is this great?!!

On of my favorite quotes form one of my favorite movies - Kent Dorfman said it - summing up my sentiments - I'm off this week and will be in the Ocean State for a front row seat for the Igor show.

Tuesday, September 7, 2010

wind spoils Hurricane Earl's whirl

Saturday afternoon, it got somewhat fun for about an hour, but that's it with all the wind.

Friday, September 3, 2010

Baja New Hampshire Bliss

Baja - never been there but that's how it felt with super fun shoulder high beach break and light, dry 90° off-shores, light crowds, one of my favorite surf buds and silky warm water. The actual temperature eludes me, all I know is I was in trunks and a t shirt - I know, cotton wicks away body heat, (that was the point), and I wanted to be like the hip kids in SD and Orange Counties.

This was all from Hurricane Danielle and a low off the Azores (yes, the Azores, look at a map, it's far!). Dudes on local online surf forums were all: "this swell was a bust, blah blah blah". I'm all "whatever what's not to love about conditions like this". Just don't leave the surfing to weekends.

I was indeed one very happy camper.