Saturday, November 29, 2008

Thanksgiving weekend surf, part deux.

Friday was day three of what’s turning out to be a five day swell. What is this, California? Wind again was the story of the day. Enough already!

Before I continue, I’m going to be more and more cryptic about surf spots, unless it’s someplace obvious. Sorry, Hampton and Good Harbor beach.
Well, when the wind’s onshore, I’m learning there’s one place to go, a place I’ll name “the causeway”. It was small but cleaner, and we hit it. It got bigger and cleaner as the session progressed. Then the skies turned pitch black, seriously. A squall? We got out and changed out of our gear in the sleet. Charming.
Since I was in the neighborhood, why not check out a town near Boston where I used to live. It’s only ever good when the wind is offshore and the swell is east, northeast. By then the squall gave way to sunny and clean conditions. Wow, such a fun looking wave, actually there were 2 lumps coming though, side by side. Each peach had it’s own left and right. See the pictures. I wish I had 2 suits, my 5-4 was in the trunk, encrusted with sleet. Too bad, it had become so nice out.


This place is a solid community, and they’ve surfed there since the beginning. Some real good folks there, and I won’t name the spot, but if you surf, you’d know it.

If you hit it right, research tides & wind forecasts (even though I didn’t), the whole area will serve up a host of choices to ride.

Saturday I kept it local, apparently about a hundred other surfers did too. It was clean and waist to head high. Tempers flared, I feel your pain. But I suppose I got my fare share of rides, but in doing so there were some breeches of surf etiquette on my part. But heck, who wants to bob around in 45° water, 40° wind? I dropped in a few folks, and some dropped in on me. This is why I go to Maine.
Thanksgiving leftovers on Sunday? Better go dry out the suit.